I manage to get away early on this long day. This will help me spread out the miles and still have time to work on my shoulders which are sore. The route mostly follows the Loire river and for a while the road travels along one of the large islands that get created in this lower stretch of the Loire. The cycling tour up (or down) the Loire is 800 km which provides us with a sense of scale. This photo shows the silting process with the main wooded island on the right.
There is a cycling expression about 'riding on the rivet' which refers to cycling flat out, body forward sat on the very front of the saddle. The rivet bit is a reference to the olden days when saddles used copper rivets to hold the leather on the saddle's frame, ..., as shown on my saddle. Yes, indeed.
This being the Loire it is wine country with plenty of vinyards large and small.
Today is Star Wars day, May the Fourth be with you, and it was as by 10:30 Brissac-Quince comes into view and I get the proper cup of coffee I have been yearning for and it is market day. An elderly lady surveys my bike for two minutes before declaring it to be splendid. The bike gets alot of attention and on today's long day I was particularly relieved to be riding on very good hubs (axels) as once the bike is moving it just keeps rolling. In keeping with the theme of these posts the hubs come from an outfit called "Hope".
The Loire...
I am not so focussed on distance these days but today was 93 km (58 miles) and mostly flat as I followed the Loire valley and arrived at my destination in one piece and in good shape. I'd like to complain about tired legs or the unforgiving terrain but so far my training and the daily plan have worked out perfectly; more by chance than good judgement. My half marathon training over the winter has helped as well as my braving the cold to get some winter rides in. Physically I am trying to put in enough effort to grow into the challenge to come (Mont Ventoux) whilst pacing myself. I bought a 750ml bottle of water to supplement my two 750ml bike bottles and I needed it so hopefully I am getting smarter. Tomorrow is 80 km then a fortnight of 45-65 km days. Its the climbing that saps the energy and life gets hillier in a week. I should stress that this is all fairly wimpy stuff compared to the real cyclists.
The campsite tonight is recommended in the book France En Velo and I had booked it despite the 22 euro price tag. I was given a pitch and as a cyclist the privilege of using the bunk house if I wished. Bottom bunk for me thank you. I feel guilty as I failed to seek out the local Town Hall this morning to pay for my pitch and I just watched a fellow cyclist pitch his tent without offering up the bunkhouse.
A number of folk have enquiried about the classic Loire Châteaux and yes, the Loire valley did attract the wealthy who welcomed the relaxed vibe of the region. The Châteaux themselves don't always conform to the Disney image you are seeking. This one is 500m from my campsite.
One of the reasons I enjoy cycle touring is that it comes under the umbrella of 'experiential travel' by which I mean travel with certain experiences in mind with the added benefit of a low(er) carbon footprint. Cycle touring allows you to move at a pace and in a manner that allows you to experience a country in all its dimensions such as climate, landscape, cityscape, food, drink (in moderation) and of course the simple joy of cycling.
Whilst experiential tourism is used by big brands to sell holidays it is not a bad approach to planning your next trip. https://www.treehugger.com/what-is-experiential-tourism-4869029
