Insufficient fluids were consumed yesterday as I missed my usual camp cooking where lots of water is had. Watching the news last night I wasn't surprised to see that there was a 10 minute segment given to the coronation which I understand happens today, the sixth of May 2023. In fact someone did mention it later in a "why aren't you there?" polite manner.
The B&B was welcomed, a good sleep and a hearty breakfast eaten in the retro chinzy room that doubles as a café.
I left my tour of Parthenay until this morning and simply headed down to the old town and to the portal I wished my directions had taken me through last night.
I know you will be thinking "hey, isn't that a photo of you entering Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in 2022 after walking 500 miles from Le Puy-en-Velay?". Or maybe you've a good memory and thought "hey, isn't that a photo of you leaving Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in 2019 on your 500-mile walk to Saintiago?". But no, this really is Parthenay and this is the Porte de Saint Jacque which pilgrims to Santiago will still pass through on their way to Santiago from northern France. More specifically from Mont Saint Michel where I started this trip.
I have enjoyed the morning chorus daily, and today heard a different one. It started with what sounded like quacking, then bleating lambs and finally the sound of a suckling pig (but before it is roasted). This is where the sound took me.
It was of course the frog chorus in the castle moat.
Parthenay old town is as you will have come to expect.
I pause after 10 miles on the bike for bananas and biscuits and am gratified that I have already finished one of my 750ml water bottles. I had not previously been drinking while cycling (ie sat pedalling) and that was the cause of yesterday's fatigue. Anyway, legs fine and I am managing the shoulders with some on-bike stretches as the bike is a great platform for stretching out that area. On the subject of learning lessons (or failing to) I must be braver and not try and book too much accommodation. I have ended up paying a premium for booking campsites out of season and I am missing the opportunity to use B&Bs when the weather or other need dictates; yes there is a properly wet day ahead and ad hoc thunderbolts.
I am avoiding too many church photos but this one caught my eye as I searched in vain for a coffee.
Though I'd hoped for some sightseeing this amphitheatre was closed for lunch.
I see a sign for a 12th century church and as this is an easy day I don't hesitate to take the short diversion which happily takes me to an excellent restaurant serving a standard "Le Menu" which means limited choice and inexpensive. And no, I didn't forget to take in the church after lunch and the Lavoir or washroom. The Lavoir can be found in many villages and is an indication of both the social and clean nature of the French.
This Lavoir is supplied with fresh spring water.
My destination today has a 15th century defensive portal. From the signs there was some basement (underground) areas though I couldn't work out the defensive strategy at play here.
A main camino route passes through Lusignan and the area is generally good for walking and cycling. The GR655 is the route for the Via Turonensis (camino) which runs from Paris south through Tours to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This morning's camino was a side shoot that comes in from Le Mont Saint Michel to meet the Via Turonensis at nearby Poitiers.
The campsite is idyllic and in keeping with my experience in France the better the campsite (for me) the cheaper it is; 5.97 euros. There are fish and frogs in the stream here though my plan is to find a supermarket and find something to go with my remaining fresh white asparagus. With only 3 hours in the saddle at 10mph it has been a rest day.
Reality started to get in the way of my idyll. First, at 5pm the receptionist warned me of overnight thunder. By 7pm there were distant rumbles and the same receptionist came over asking if I'd like a proper room - for my bike. She said farewell and hoped I'd be OK during the night looking doubtfully at my little tent. Bike securely stored away I get everything in the tent while I finish my pasta. 7.30pm and the last of the pasta joins me in a race to the tent as Zeus unleashes his thunderbolts.
As the storm rages inches from my head I realise I have camped between a river and a stream so even if the rain from above doesn't get me the flood water will. All being well I aim to post an update by eighteen hundred hours on Sunday 7th May. I now need something more terrifying to take my mind off the storm.
After my back to back long days one of my hopes is that Mont Ventoux is achievable. I'll be able to leave most of my gear at base camp riding up with minimal kit and the bike has the required low gears; I hope low enough. In Sean Yates autobiography he talks about the hardest parts of his riding career. He says this about the climb I am aiming for, 'I rate the hardest climb as Mont Ventoux, just for its relentless nature'. And this is from one of the toughest and most relentless cyclists the UK has produced. Even though I am taking the easiest route up, Mont Ventoux will be long and unending so I'll need to prepare my resolve in the week leading up to Mont Ventoux though that week is the one where life gets hillier. Here's hoping, though I do wonder if Mont Ventoux will turn out to be my hopeless hope.
