Monday 22nd of May 2023 and I attempt to climb Ventoux. It is no accident that my route from Saint Malo to Nice happens to land me at the base of Ventoux as it has long been a magnet for cyclists.
There are plenty of images on the internet of cyclists with their bikes in front of the sign at the top which shows the altitude. I have seen formal altitude signs showing 1909, 1910, 1911 and 1912 which I think just means I have been obsessing far too much. Ventoux has a reputation for windy conditions; venteux means windy though all was calm the day I rode. And the origins of Ventoux's name may have nothing to do with wind.
If you cycle Ventoux and want some evidence of your suffering then I see that https://www.ventoux1912.fr/en/65-photos-mount-ventoux-2022 will provide that for a fee.
There are different ways to describe the climb from Sault and here is one concise version that captures the main elements. "Less heavy up to Chalet Reynard, but personally I find this side the most beautiful. Enjoy it to the fullest! After the chalet follow more than 6 heavy kilometers where the wind can make it 'extra heavy'. And wind or no wind, the last kilometer is always hard. Lesser climbers who want to cycle the Ventoux for the first time I always recommend the climb from Sault."
As a "lesser climber" I will go up from Sault but the more popular route is Bedoin, and a third option from Malaucène. This website has the statistics for each ascent.
Known as the Cinglé du Mont Ventoux you can always try all three routes in a day; https://climbfinder.com/en/routes/cingle-du-mont-ventoux
With a touring bike it will be a challenge hoisting my 58-year old 6'3" frame up the mountain, and that's what it comes down to.
There is plenty of advice on the internet and epicroadrides.com is a good site.
Setting out I dressed for the top of Ventoux but by the time I left it was airless and warming up so I soon shed a layer and opened all available zippers. At the bottom of the climb they let you know if the Col is OUVERT, open.
Then later on you get some data and another variation on the height and the name.
I took things as easy as was sensible and stopped when I felt a rest and breather was required; the first one coincided with a bench and also one of the bins for the real cyclists to discarded gel wrappers on the go.
Another excuse for a stop. I think they missed a trick in not using cycle components though maybe that wouldn't have worked.
Lots of animals.
It has been around 5% for much of the way with some easier segments but from Chalet Reynard it bumps up to around 7% with a 10% kick at the top. I am dealing with the climb better than I thought but still kept it as easy as I could as the aim was not to be forced off the bike. There are now plenty of outfits doing photos and thrusting cards into your hand or your back pocket.
At one point I instinctively look up and there is the summit, a brief moment of relief and then the road kicks up again. Further on two cyclists have pulled over to have a snack just 1 km from the summit though with hindsight they had probably stopped at the Tom Simpson memorial.
For the whole climb I have paced myself and even taken breaks and bikes have been passing me on a regular basis either racers or e-bikers. With 300m to go another racer passes me and I decide that this time I would stay with him so I pick up the pace and to my surprise I am feeling good and the summit tower is near. Unfortunately the road passes and wraps around the tower then there is a ramp finish adding another 300m but I make it and am in surprisingly good shape staying on the bike and circling the hard standing to cool down. I took this as my summit picture though I feel there may have been a sign around the corner.
The tower at the summit.
The route up from Sault and Bedoin which passes Chalet Reynard.
The route from Malaucène shows the changeable weather.
I stay for a while but either Zeus or Ventoux conjure up lightening which lights up the sky followed by ominous rumbles of thunder. I eat, drink and recover before descending to Chalet Reynard for coffee, croissant and more recovery.
Despite a stop at Chalet Reynard I was eventually forced off the bike at the end of 18 km of descent as my upper body just couldn't keep me on the bike safely. It was a cold descent and I was now grateful that I had layered up. This is a photo of Ventoux from Sault taken when I returned to town; you can just make out the ghostly outline of Ventoux. It is blurred as I had to edit to make Ventoux vaguely visible as it is a 52 km round trip from Sault to Ventoux.
Jeremy Whittle had subtitled his book on Ventoux "Sacrifice and Suffering" and I can see why if you had to race it from either of the other two approaches. For me the first 20 km was a pleasant climb through woodland and the final 6 km challenging but interesting as the landscape changed and with that in mind I didn't suffer going up but my sacrifice was going up slowly watching everyone overtaking me. The big surprise was being forced off the bike on the long descent.
Pre-ride preparation
Thinking about preparation I am good at forgetting things in my eagerness (nervousness) to just get started so here is my personal checklist. It's a plan, not the best, but it is a plan.
1. Try and take it easy in the days leading up to the challenge; accepting I had two longish days just before due to poor planning. 80 km then 70 km with climbing.
2. Check the weather forecast to ensure it is safe https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mont-Ventoux/forecasts/1912
3. Hydrate and fuel up starting the night before including organising an early breakfast if leaving early and buy snacks and a sugary drink. Remember to drink just before leaving
4. Have bidons, snacks, phone, cash and spare tube all ready the night before including where to stash things. They all fit in my orange Jersey.
5. Check the bike over including chain lubricant.
6. It will feel like 6 degrees centigrade at best at the top so all four layers and a waterproof; and two pairs of socks.
7. Leave early subject to the forecast; it may work best to leave in the early cold wrapped up and slowly follow the cold air up the mountain.
8. Oh, and don't forget the left turning on the way down to get back to Sault.
