If like me you thought Provence was a soft flat landscape populated with fields of yellow sunflowers and blooming rows of purple lavender then think again as it is mountainous. Many villages are situated on a steep hillside like Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and although it is an awkward place to build it does free up the limited valley land for cultivation and is also easier to defend. The Gorges du Verdon for example is 700m deep in places which compares to the Grand Canyon in the USA which is admittedly over double that.
Though too far to photo this gallery cuts through a vertical cliff face.
It was a terrifying prospect as I surveyed it last night from 2 km away and I am still not comfortable when I look down.
In anticipation of the dark tunnel you are advised to 'light your fire' or put your lights on.
I have made a big deal of Ventoux as it is the Col you will have heard of and its the one cycle enthusiasts flock to. However, I had the pleasure of climbing that without baggage. The other Cols and the Gorges I have had to climb fully kitted out.
Another village perché and this one's medieval castle highlights its defensive position.
Yesterday there were about a dozen Ferraris driving up and down the gorge. I mention it as they had a van with its rear hatchback door open and someone taking photos out of the back. Today it is another group of cars which must have come up from Monaco and other glamorous resorts on the Mediterranean. It is the Monaco Grand Prix tomorrow and one car has an especially bright paint job with the words "SAFETY CAR" written on it.
I am leaving the Var department and entering a new one.
'High Provence' is appropriate as I reached 1,000 meters today which is admittedly in the Var and the elevation gain was admittedly due to yesterday's hard work.
Yesterday I saw plenty of small butterfly as I descended from the gite. Today a large white butterfly came to my handlebars and stayed with me for at least 5 seconds as I cycled along. I haven't said much about the wildlife on this trip yet but with France and the regions I have been travelling through being sparsely populated the birdsong has been impressive. Less of the night time owls I heard so much of last year in Brittany but a noticeable amount of cuckoo calls during the day. There have been many frog chorus' and three deer sightings; larger than the muntjac we see in the UK so maybe roe deer. The hedgehog population is healthy; at least those that haven't tried to cross the road. One snake on the road sunning itself, an eagle and a hare.
Towards the end of the day I followed the Verdon river which is very popular for rafting as there is just the right amount of gentle white water over a sufficient distance to make it a good commercial activity equivalent to the canoes of the Ardèche. Today's campsite is 15 euros, situated on my road into town, the pitch is good and there is even a washing line to finish drying the tent before it goes up. I had picked up supermarket provisions once the climbing was done and despite the heat some hot, tasty liquidy food was welcome. The Verdon is usually some shade of blue but with all the rain it has been a grubby muddy putty colour.
As I took this photo a minibus disgorged ten men in very becoming - and matching - head to toe neoprene, then the river was engorged by the same quantity of men plus a raft; that's gorge rafting for you.
In position Nice is a mere 90 km east-south-east and I am due north of St Tropez or more precisely Port Grimaud but St Tropez sounds more Mediterranean.
Castellane is bustling and as a first on this trip I sit in a cafe for cooling ice cream and a beer.
If you are growing tired of reading then rest assured that day 30 is the last as I will enjoy time in Nice, night train to Paris, cycle to Dieppe then ferry and train home. This story was always about Channel to Mediterranean.
